Merry Christmas! We got up early and walked to Taksim in
search of a Catholic church. We got a little lost, but it was ok. We went to
Saint Anthony of Padua church. I read that it’s run by Italian brothers and
that one of the popes used to preach there. It’s also the oldest and biggest
neo-classical (I think) church in Istanbul, so I wanted to go. What a surprise
when we arrived! The congregation was mostly Phillipino women and Nigerian men.
Not a problem, but very interesting. And now Eka thinks that Catholic churches
always sing “Happy Birthday, Jesus” as part of their Christmas service. I have
to say, it was rather fun to sing “Feliz Navidad” with such a diverse group of
people and their equally diverse voices! After the service, Eka asked about the
sign of the cross (Orthodox Christians touch their right shoulders first and
always use three fingers together) and then for a picture with the crèche.
Merry Christmas.
Being in Taksim, we went shopping after church. Last night,
I had arranged to meet Yavuz by the tower (Galata tsikhe) between 12 and 1. We waited there for a big, then Eka got
bored with waiting, so she went shopping alone while I waited by the tower
until 2. It was strange when I realized that Yavuz wasn’t coming (so I
thought…turns out he was there around 2 and I passed him as I was leaving),
because I had to wait there for Eka anyway (even though I suspected she might
be lost). Good thing I like people-watching. And of all the places to be
stood-up, this was one of the more interesting ones so everything was ok.
Eka and I had salad for dinner again. On the walk home, she
stopped and paid a man with a scale 25 cents (lira’s cents…I’m not sure what
they’re called) to weigh her. She keeps complaining that she’s “big.” I keep
explaining that those are called muscles, that they happen when one eats salad
and exercises, and that they’re a good thing even though they’re heavier than
fat. We walked a bit more, then we went back to the hotel and I was able to skype
my parents and grandparents for Christmas. It’s the first time in a long time
that I’ve had good enough internet to think about skyping anyone.
After skyping my family, I facebooked Yavuz. We arranged to
meet up later in the evening. Because Eka was tired, it would just be us two.
So Eka and I watched The Red Violin,
which was excellent but in at least 5 languages so it required a lot of concentration…then
I got dressed and headed out…
By “got dressed,” I mean that I put on earrings. Eka told me
to make my hair pretty, and when I did she said that I’m a good girl for being
beautiful. In New York, putting on earrings and twisting a braid into my hair
hardly counts as getting dressed-up. Here, though, and with Eka, it’s the most
dressed-up I’ve been in ages. Maybe I’ll paint my nails for New Years…people
would be shocked J
Yavuz and I walked around Taksim, scoping out markets,
talking, and just enjoying the lights. This was my first time being out alone
(without chaperone, parents/host-parents, students, police, or curious
neighbors) in ages, and I can’t begin to explain how sweet the air was. Yavuz
and I talked about politics and poetry, friendship, cultural exchanges,
language, beer, marriage, art…qvelaperi
da dzalian bednieri viqavi! He walked me home around 1 and I decided
that—beautiful as Istanbul is—breathing the night air of Istanbul for a few free hours will be what I miss most about my time here.
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