It snowed all last night, but this morning the weather was
clear—if cloudy—just long enough for Eka and I to have our morning stroll. When
we got back to the house, we sat down for pre-breakfast coffee and cake. She
outlined our day: we would clean my room, clean the kitchen, shower, eat, study
PowerPoint, and then go and visit her grandmother. I agreed and then excused
myself to my room to change clothes…and to pre-clean.
When I came back from Ukraine, I found that she had very thoroughly cleaned my room. My
books were stacked in a different place and she had changed how my clothes were
grouped in my drawers. It’s normal for Eka to decide to clean my room, and she
insists no matter how I protest so I’ve just learned to pre-clean. Usually I
straighten up before leaving for school each morning. She has the best of
intentions (I trust) when she goes through my drawers and my books. Aside from
having the whole everyone-knows-everything small town lack-of-privacy, I also
have this situation at home. It’s…I can deal, but I’m glad I have nothing to
hide.
The day didn’t quite go as planned. Eka started cleaning the
kitchen and sent me to the store. I needed to pick up a few things anyway,
because I’m cooking at school on Monday. I had to go to three stores to find
everything on my list, but it was nice to be outside. By then the snow had
started again and was falling in huge flakes. When I got home, I unpacked the
groceries and made chocolate-covered-pretzels. Eka had already cleaned the
kitchen and had moved on to my bedroom. Michael called and asked if I wanted to
go play in the snow. What a silly question!
Being a skier, he thought to bring water-proof clothes. We
dressed up like plastic penguins and then went to the soccer-field where there
was lots of fresh snow waiting for us. We built a huge snowman in the goal.
Michael estimated that our snowman-goalie was about 8’ tall by the time we
finished. It was epic. We took pictures with it, and then Michael buried me and
sculpted wings and a halo. Instead of making a snow-angel, I became one. One of
his students showed up while I was buried. The boy traced Michael’s name in the
snow and then brought us a carrot for the snow-goalie’s nose. Precious.
We returned to my house for coffee and a few games of chess.
Which I lost. Then Eka strongly suggested that I go next in the shower, so
Michael said good-bye and I went to shower. My hair has been getting really
long. The first time I asked about getting it cut, Eka said the woman who cuts
her hair could do it. Then she decided that I need a real hairdresser, so she
said we would go to one in Tbilisi. The first time we were in Tbilisi, she went
without me. The second time (when I was there alone), she had me stay with her
family. I’ve asked Maguala a few times about cutting just the ends, but Eka
always manages to throw some obstacle in the way. She’s admitted that she
doesn’t want me to cut my hair because she likes it long. Finally today, I
insisted that it needed to be cut. So she cut it. She barely took any off, but
the dead parts are gone so I’m just going to be amused…and think about what
would happen if I disappeared to the city for a weekend and came back with
short hair.
After my hair-cut, Eka and I had lunch/dinner. Then we
started to study PowerPoint, but we were interrupted by her cousin’s arrival.
Giorgi—her cousin—had brought another Giorgi. This new guest is a Rachuli
Tbilisi-dweller. At first, I was told that he’s a director. I thought he must
do something with the government or schools or something. Then I was told that
he’s an art specialist. I still was unclear what this meant, but he was nice
enough and we went through the usual routine where a guest asks a nearby
Georgian about my background and I answer all the questions. Eka and Maguala
petted me and babied me. Then I was excused from our PowerPoint because the
Giorgis invited me to follow them and Maguala. I didn’t know where we were
going, but any chance to do something different is worth jumping on. Gio
laughed as Eka fussed over my hat and scarf. In front on new guests, they fuss
over me so that everyone can see how they take care of their guest. And what I
little girl I am. I usually play along, but when someone interesting comes
along and I want to have a grown-up conversation, I’m always tempted to pat Eka
and Maguala on the heads, tell them what good children they are, and then focus
on our guest.
Luckily, Giorgi wanted to practice his English. As we walked
through the snow, he asked if I like the people here. I answered that of course
I do, and then he surprised me by asking if there is anything that I don’t
like. I thought for a moment and then answered honestly that I come from a
culture where being a guest is about spending time with the other person. It
isn’t that I don’t like the guest culture here, but it’s difficult for me
because I want to spend time with people here but they just want to feed
me…regardless of whether I want to eat or not. He said that there is a very aggressive
guest culture in the caucus countries. He understood why I struggle with it,
and he explained that it isn’t the culture in Azerbijan or Armenia so he
doesn’t understand why it’s so strong here. It was a thoughtful question and a
thoughtful analysis of my anwer.
By then we had reached the Resource Center and he was taking
out his key. As I followed him and Maguala up to the theater room, I wondered
what Giorgi is doing in Oni and why his conversation felt so refreshing. When
we got upstairs, he pulled out booklets and set them on a chair. As he
continued unpacking, I picked up one of the booklets. It was a script, and a
decently long one. By then, he had finished unpacking. The Giorgis started
choreographing a fight with some machetes, and then they asked if I wanted to
learn. So I joined for a little while. We fought until other people started
showing up. These people were all actors. Giorgi is a theater director (and an
actor). He was at Keti’s show yesterday, and he wants to dedicate his upcoming
show to her father. As people filed in, I asked what this play is about. He
explained as best he could, then he asked someone else to explain in German.
Then I watched the rehearsal, and the story feels familiar. Probably because I've been reading so many Georgian folktales...Maybe I'll be able to translate it in full at some point. Hope so!
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