Already October?

Hurrah for free trips. Welcome to Olomouc and Litomysl!

After another wonderful week of classes and adventures, I found myself at Namesti Miru looking for the bus to yet another overnight trip. To be honest, I only signed up for this one because Sam did. I don't recall how exactly the school described this trip, but I can confidently say that they didn't do it justice. They should have advertised better; not only were both towns beautiful architecturally, but I've also noticed Olomouc being referenced increasingly and am glad that I had the chance to see it.

We drove almost to Olomouc but then stopped to admire Svatý Kopeček on the hill outside the city. It's actually a beautiful baroque church dedicated to the Holy Mother, and we walked around the grounds for a bit after admiring the inside. We munched on sandwiches as we walked back to the bus, and I noticed two things. First, there were markers for the Eurotrail along the path, and they were similar (obviously, I guess) to the ones we had seen in Slovakia the week before. Second, there was a small stone obelisk at the bottom of the hill that had text in both Czech and Russian carved beneath a red Soviet star. Translated, the inscription dedicated the monument to the Soviet army as a gift of gratitude from the residents of Olomouc who had been liberated after Nazi occupation. Fitting at one point in time, perhaps, but considering the history that followed I really think someone should have taken this particular monument down by now. Really.

From there, we continued by bus into Olomouc itself. One of our RAs has a friend who is from the city and offered to meet us and show us around. She had planned a walking tour, researched the history of the different architectural highlights, and arranged our visits to the town hall and art museum.

In the main square, the renaissance town hall (with its gothic chapel) sits next to a baroque trinity column while incorporating a Soviet astronomical clock and a replica of a David Cerny sculpture in it's facade. The astronomical clock originally had been similar to the one in Prague (though less ornate), but the Nazis tried to burn it then the Austrians stamped it with their empire's crest and finally the Soviets added mosaic scenes of their laborer, peasant, and intellectuals (though no soldiers, which is strange because Soviet art usually depicts the quartet).

We ended our tour at the Olomouc Museum of Art where we saw an exhibit called "Dům milovníka umění" or "An Art Lover's House." This curious exhibit was based in the idea that there were many artistic styles at the cusp of the 19th and 20th centuries, and it showcased pieces from all these styles arranged as they might be in an art lover's house.

That evening, we went out after dinner for burčák (the last of the season...it's getting to strong to be 'young wine' much longer), beers in a rock bar, and a bit of exploring in a wine cellar. Then we crashed for the night.

The next morning, we had a delicious breakfast (the complimentary breakfast at a hostel is always a gamble...this one was excellent) before setting off to Litomysl. Our first stop upon arriving was the house that composer Bedřich Smetana was born in. He didn't live there for much of his life, but the house has been turned into a museum to showcase some of the family's possessions. These include a violin, piano, and some of Smetana's manuscripts.

After that tour we split up to get lunch and explore the historic town before regrouping at the gorgeous renaissance castle (a UNESCO site, as it were). I'm so glad to be taking that History of Czech Architecture class. I can follow the jargon on castle tours much better than before.

We were supposed to return to Prague immediately after that tour, but we found ourselves with enough time to tour the Josef Vachal museum. Similar to the Smetana museum, it was just the house that Vachal had lived in turned into a museum. It was different because the artist had painted every exposed surface in most rooms, so there was a lot to take in. And if you're not familiar with his work you should really follow that link and check it out so that you understand: there was A LOT to take in.

So that was October 1st and 2nd. The 3rd (a Sunday) Sam and I went to the Prague Zoo. I learned that small owls are quite cute, that the German word for porcupine is das Stachelschwein, and that not putting up a glass wall on the bat exhibit is an invitation for the lovely fruit bats to fly out around the heads of zoo-goers. I guess that last one is obvious, but it was one of the coolest experiences I've had at a zoo and it was an experience that I don't think would happen in the US. Someone in the zoo bureaucracy would nix the idea for fear of a lawsuit. Just saying.

For all of this, I sketched scenes and details that I would otherwise have sketched because my camera disappeared on the train home from Slovakia. Thus, I have many poorly done and rather funny scribbles of owls and bats. The marks of a good trip.

I could write more...but I think this is a good place to break for now. Tchus!


PS I'm still blogging for my Art of Travel class if you wanna check it out...